Stitching with Overdyeds
Last updated January 29, 2004
 


Variegated and Hand-Dyed Fibers
Chat Summary for April 4, 1997
by Margaret Davaz


Introduction

Tonight's topic is one I knew nothing about, so I am very grateful to the experienced Stitchers who shared their knowledge with the group. Special thanks go to these chatters:

ThisNeedle (Judie), owner of Thistle Needleworks in Glastonbury, CT. She describes her shop as “4,500 square feet of threads and fabrics and books and love in central CT.”

KPaules531 (JoAnn) works in Olde Tollgate Village Stitchery. This shop is mostly oriented to cross-stitch and counted thread and always willing to special order. JoAnn teaches all of the classes. The shop is not online — yet!

NGRJR (Sandy), head Shepherdess of "EWE"-nique Stitches. She describes her shop as "Complete cross-stitch and custom framing. Our specialty is Designer Threads and using TV fabric to stitch on. TV fabrics are large 7 - 10 ct. You can watch TV & never miss a stitch."

Though this chat provided an excellent introduction to these fibers, more complete information can be found in the Fibers Needlework FAQ on Kathy Dyer's website:
http://www.dnai.com/~kdyer/


About the Fibers

Can you please list the companies that manufacture the threads described?

Caron, Rainbow Gallery, Needle Necessities.


What's the difference between Sampler Threads, Overdyes and Variegated?

Sampler Threads & Needle Necessities overdyed are hand dyed; Waterlilies are silk and are hand painted. Weeks Dye Works are dyed. These threads—overdyes, floss, metallics, braids, etc.—are used to achieve really neat effects. Many beginning Stitchers had not heard of these fibers, nor had they seen samples in large chain stores. Because of the special uses, these threads are usually only found in specialty needlework shops.

To get a feel for these fibers, several Stitchers used them on their @ badges. This is a small project that might be a good one to try the fibers on. Applefrien used 3 shades of purple with blended threads just before she discovered Caron's line. (If you need the @ badge chart, just e-mail Cameo with a request). Another Stitcher used Waterlilies on a canvas piece and was able to make both sides match.


Who can describe these for us? Let's start with varigated ...

Variegated are mass produced with a regular repeat (usually 1 meter) in shades of one color. DMC has a line of these varigated threads in stranded cotton floss. J&P Coats used to make some too, but we're not sure if they still do. Theirs had color combinations with pink, blue, lavender, green and yellow.


Can you describe Overdyeds now?

This is made when a single color of floss is overdyed with one or more other colors.

When you try overdyed threads for the first time, try stitching several different ways --

[1] One stitch at a time: This gives an interesting "blotchy" effect, and good coverage. You don't see the variation of the colors and changes are real subtle.

[2] Across the row and then return: This gives a more subtle effect.

[3] In vertical rows - down and then back (as if horizontal): Nutmeg Needle's Halloween tree uses an overdyed vertically to get a really good "bark" on her tree.

[4] One strand of overdyed with a similar solid color of floss: This is called tweeding.

Each produces a different effect, so depending on the "look" you want your completed piece to have, you need to alter your stitching technique.

BabyGeorge tried stitching across a row with / / / then returning with \ \ \ using Needle Necessities thread and loved the effect. Some of the color changes are very subtle, some are very abrupt. ThisNeedle, too, prefers the subtle look stitching in rows provides. The threads can even help to simulate a beautiful sunset or sunrise.


Can you describe Sampler Threads, please?

Sampler Threads is the name of threads hand-dyed by a company called The Gentle Art. Sampler Threads and Weeks Dye Works threads are made in a similar fashion—a color of floss overdyed with one or more other colors. They are great for samplers because of their old-timey look. They are very subtle, nice, muted colors with interesting names like Cinnamon and Desert sage. Sampler Threads are available only at shops - the manufacturer will not retail.


How many colors are available for Sampler Threads?

About 35 colors. The colors are not "bright," but all are beautiful!

Goldietex had this experience with the Sampler Threads: “Well, I love the Sampler Threads from Gentle Arts, but had to do a no-no when stitching a table runner. I knew that I would have to wash it ... so I washed the floss first to get the bleeding over. I know you're not supposed to wash them, but the thought of the floss running broke my heart.”


Now tell us about Waterlilies

Waterlilies base is Soie Crystal, a silk floss. Waterlilies are lovely to the touch. Because these are silk and have the labor of the hand-dyed process, these fibers are on the pricey side. But one lucky Stitcher found Waterlilies last week for 60% off ... $2.00 per skein with that discount. Or, as KPaules531 put it, "They're expensive because the little silk worms only want the best chow to make the silk! Nobody want's minimum wage—not even silk worms!"


Can you wash Waterlilies?

Sure, wash Waterlilies, but with great care. You might want to "test" them first. Like most silks, they will release excess dye. So washing is usually not recommended. Pre-washing the fibers will probably change the color. So if you are used to washing all your work after stitching, you may need to try a new technique when using these fibers. If you pre-wash your fabric and mount on stretchers, you do not need to launder the finished piece.


How about Wildflowers?

Wildflowers base is a flower thread weight cotton.


Anyone have information on Caron Watercolours?

BabyGeorge used these on 14 ct plastic canvas! She found them to be a perfect match.


I *think* I heard these are by the same manufacturer and have similar numbers, or something?

Caron Collection produces Watercolours, Wildflowers, and Waterlilies in the same color range, but not all available in all colors. For example, Sky Blue Pink doesn't come in Waterlilies.


Have you tried Impressions yet?

LOVE Impressions! Impressions is 50% silk, 50% wool. Soft as a lamb!


And then there are the Rainbow Gallery threads ...

Goldietex bought a Mosey&Me chart of cowboy using lots of Rainbow Gallery.
Applefrien framed 4 Rainbow GGallery's Earth, Fire, Air and Water.


Do you know how many different colors are in the "Silk'N Colors"?

KPaules531 replied, “No ... I buy them at a shop in Virginia when I take a ‘road trip’.” And BabyGeorge noted that she'll be checking out all the specialty fibers at the Wyndham booth at the Celebrations in Needlework fair.


I KNOW these wonderful fibers are known by needlepointers, but they can be used by cross-stitchers too? Are they becoming more widely available?

YES!!!!


Other Uses for the Fibers

How many strands do these fibers have. For example, how many yards in a skein. Could I do something foolish ... like crochet with it ??

Watercolors has 3 strands. Waterlilies (silk) is 12 ply. Each skein has 6 yards of 12 ply silk.

Wildflowers is 1.

Sampler Threads come in 5 and 10 yard packs. 10 yards Sampler Threads = $2.50-2.75 ish


Are the threads used for cross-stitch and crocheting?

Variegated is great for trims and outlines on afghans.


Where to Use the Fibers

Are there charts to cross match the threads? I hear that designers and manufacturers work together to help each other out, is that correct?

Yes! Here's a short list:

[1] Best Friends uses overdyes

[2] Fanci That charts have a cross ref in them for overdyes

[3] Jean Hilton

[4] Just Nan uses overdyeds - Caron Waterlilies, Thread Gatherer and Leah's overdyed - especially in teaching pieces. Just Nan uses overdyed silk very similar to Gentle Arts...yummie and easy to work with.

[5] Mirabilia uses Waterlilies and Whisper

[6] MLI's Angel of Autumn uses Burnt Toast and Flame Caron Wildflowers. Earthdancer also has Whisper and some suede. Her alphabet sampler called 'New Wings' uses varigated.

[7] Mosey N" Me uses overdyes

[8] Nutmeg Needle designs, such as her Tea sampler. Nutmeg Needle is the company name for Sue Stokes whose designs are available at cross-stitch shops. Sue Stokes designs use Needle Necessities.

[9] Rainbow Gallery charts

[10] Seeby Designs uses overdyes, too

[11] Something Different

[12] Sweetheart Tree uses Needle Necessities


LoneDeer, as a designer, have you incorporated any of these specialty threads into your designs yet?

LoneDeer responded, “Cameo...not yet...but we will!”


Tips and Tricks

What are some tips for stitching with these specialty fibers?

1. Keep hands and project clean

2. Treat yourself to a skein of one of them. You'll fall in love!

3. If you use "The Stripper", you'll also find out if a thread is "leaking". The Stripper is a thimble-like gadget with a piece of the soft velcro attached to it. It helps you separate and dampen your threads before you begin stitching. You dampen the soft velcro with water, and run your floss over the velcro. If your threads have a tendency to bleed, it will be apparent on the velcro.

4. For a special effect, use Sampler Threads instead of DMC.


Finding Suppliers

Variegated threads aren't as easy to find as regular floss. In some areas, there is not much of a call for them. And because they tend to be more costly than stranded cotton floss, some shops have difficulty justifying a substantial inventory. They are widely available via mail order sources and by special order. (Need help finding suppliers? Check out the Shop Showcase and Catalogs listing in CameoRoze's Stitcher's Studio)!

Fiber sample cards are available for most of the lines. This way you can view the different threads and see all the colors and variations. For example, a Caron color card is available at a reasonable price to consumers. And Fiber Fantasy has an excellent thread cross reference, though it does not touch overdyeds. There are also color charts online, although they may not match the dye lots. Again, the Needlework FAQ may be a valuable reference source for this need.

One thing to watch for in these specialty fibers are skeins that do not match in color. So when purchasing, make sure you get enough of the same dye lot. Caron dye lots are very uneven, so buying a Caron through the mail can be a little unnerving. The dye lots change due to the dye manufacturer; Ms Caron has no control. Sometimes the differences are dramatic. BabyGeorge asked Lois Caron about it. She described it similar to making spaghetti sauce ... it never comes out the same way twice.

Another way to try out these fibers is to join a class. For example, Sweetheart Tree Heart Samplers Club is held once a month at NGRJR's shop. They use fabric color and overdyed to match. “We did not do the bows on hearts ... try using overdyed threads for bow ... long nails and all ...”


Conclusion

From all I've learned tonight, I'm itchin' to get stitchin' with some of these special fibers!
:: dreaming ::

I can start out small ... just one skein ... of EACH! ... and as I grow to love them ... the Caron Collection will metamorphize into a new name ...

Cameo's Collection! :D

_______________
Copyright 1997, Margaret M. Davaz. All rights reserved. This article may be reproduced upon permission of the author with this copyright remaining intact. E-mail me at web@cameoroze.com for permission.

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From: Joanne
Date: Fri, 14 Nov 1997

From the newsletter that I just got from Mary Jane's Cross 'N Stitch (my favorite mail order supplier), a reminder that due to strict regulations imposed by the FDA on dye chemicals, no thread is guaranteed 100% by its manufacturer, so it's important to follow advice from the manufacturer.

Elaine Warner from Needle Necessities is quoted as recommending "that their overdyed floss be unskeined, put into a basin 1/2 filled with cold to tepid water with 2 tbsps. of white vinegar and 2 tbsps. of salt. Soak for 1-2 minutes, remove, blot with towel, and let dry. This is recommended for the floss you use on any piece that will require washing. Note that hot water and using a steam iron will reactivate the dye and cause bleeding!"

The overdyed floss is hand dyed 100% cotton.

Another suggestion from that manufacturer dealt with removing dyes that have already bled. Soak the piece in ice cold water until the color starts to come out. Then rub an ice cube over the area; put the piece back in fresh ice water and soak again. Repeat the process until the area is clear. It make take several times, but it apparently works.

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From: Fiberartist
Date: Wed, 25 Mar 1998

I first unwind the skein and cut it in the centre. Then I seseparatet into light and dark sections, in other words, place a loop on the top, and when you are stitching look at where you are and see if you want to start the next stitch with a light end or dark end and you cannot go wrong.

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Websites with More Information

Classic Stitches
November 2003 Newsletter
An article by Martha Beth Lewis on space-dyed threads.

Needle Necessities
Specializing in overdyed, spacedyed and shadowdyed threads.


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