Needle Knowhow Last updated January 23, 2004 |
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The needle should be small enough to pass through the fabric easily, but large enough so that it creates a "path" for the thread to pass through the fabric without friction. Short needles (1-1/8") are designed for fine and detailed work Medium-length needles (1-1/2") are for general purpose sewing Longer needles (1-7/8") are often used for techniques where a needle that can span a large areas is necessary (basting, darning, and beadwork, for example). A blunt-pointed needle is the best choice for needlepoint, counted cross-stitch and counted thread embroidery which are worked on canvas, mesh or evenweave fabrics as it slips easily through canvas holes or between fabric threads without piercing or splitting them. Embroidery Needles feature a long eye for easy threading of multiple strands and have a very sharp point for piercing close-woven fabrics. Stumpwork requires threads of many sizes on close-woven satin background. You will find the sharp point and smooth shape of the embroidery sharps will slip through the fabric without damage, pulling the thread through effortlessly, regardless of thickness. The blunt rounded end of a Tapestry Needle slips easily through the holes of canvas or into the weave of fabric without snagging or piercing. The long oval eye carries more than the usual number of strands of yarn or thread. --------------- This tip was printed in the January 2004 Needle Delights newsletter: How Long Does Your Needle Last? Needles are just wire with a very fine metal coating. It's hard to imagine how fine the finish must be to coat a small needle! The oils and acids on our hands affect this delicate finish. An old needle could look perfectly good, but under a microscope the surface would look pitted. That means it won't slide through the fabric as well as it should. Don't wait until you needle is worn completely or bent to replace [it]. Your needle is not a family heirloom. Change your needles often — once the finish is worn off, your fabric will look dirty. --------------- From: Mithapwil@aol.com Lance Needles
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An excellent article about needles can be found in the August 1997 edition of Just Cross Stitch on page 28. It's called, "A Needle Primer" by Martha Beth Lewis.
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And be sure to read Kathy Dyer's FAQ for more information about needles:
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From: CraftTalk Newsletter by Herrschner's
Many stitchers have a body chemistry that causes the needle to discolor and the nickel coating wears off. Others are allergic to nickel and cannot use nickel-plated needles at all. Try gold-plated and platinum-plated needles because they are hypoallergenic.
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From: CraftTalk Newsletter by Herrschner's
All (tapestry) needles are not created equal ... the smaller the number, the larger the needle "barrel." If you use too big of a needle, the hole it creates as it passes through your fabric will be distorted. In general, use these needles for this fabric count:
Size 24 11 or 14 count
Size 24, 26 18 count
Size 26, 28 22 count and higher
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From: Karen In a magazine a while ago, I read how to make your own needle sizer. I can't remember which magazine I saw it in (I have lots!!), so I will go from memory.
Get a margarine lid. Get a needle for each size that you are POSITIVE is that size. Heat each needle, and quickly poke it through the lid, but only to where it is the widest, not completely through. Mark beside it the size. When cool, a smaller needle will slip right through, and a bigger needle will only go partway(you'll see what I mean when you try it). Cut the lid to size, and you now have a way of telling what size they are.
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The DMC Corporation has a nice guide for their needles. Contact them for their pamphlet entitled DMC Needle Guide:
The DMC Corporation
Tel: (201) 589-0606
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