Metallics, Blending Filament & Rayon Updated September 27, 2002 | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
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The consensus of opinion from stitchers who have used metallics is that finished projects containing metallic threads are beautiful but that most metallic fibers are not always much fun to use. So the purpose of the 2 chats was to offer hints to make using metallics easier.
We began our chats talking about blending filament because it seems to be one of the most often used metallics. The most popular is Balger blending filament, manufactured by Kreinik. It's a very fine fiber meant to be used in a blended needle with floss, and it comes in a variety of colors. With most projects, depending upon the thread count of the fabric being used, the needle will have 1 or 2 strands of floss with 1 strand of blending filament. It comes in shades of silver and gold, but it also comes in a wide variety of other colors, as well, and adds glitter to the parts of a design in which it is used.
Stitchers can encounter several different challenges when they use blending filament. One of the most common complaints is that the filament ravels at the ends. The good news is there is a way to stop the raveling. :-) Many of you who have been coming to chat for a while know I try very hard not to use damaging chemicals on any part of my needlework, but here, I make an exception. After a strand of blending filament has been cut for use, it can be kept from raveling by applying a tiny amount of Fraycheck to each end of the strand. Fraycheck is a liquid fabric stiffener that prevents fraying. I recommend letting the Fraychecked ends dry before using the filament for stitching. This takes only a few minutes. To avoid making the Fraychecked portions a permanent part of a piece of needlework, you can leave a long tail when you anchor your blended needle. After you're finished stitching, you can snip off the long end to remove the treated portion.
One stitcher at Friday Class Act chat wondered whether burning the ends with a match would fuse each one together to prevent fraying. She told us she's done this with other metallic fibers and has had success with it. She said she quickly puts out any flame with her fingers. I'd say the same thing I do about most other things related to cross stitch: this is a personal preference, so do what works best for you. :-)
Another common complaint about blending filament is that it tends to twist and to break. It is of a very different consistency from regular embroidery floss and does require some patience. There are several things you can do to help prevent twisting and breakage. One is to use short lengths of blending filament. It's easier to manage shorter lengths, and because a short strand won't pass through the fabric as often as a longer one, there's less friction against the filament to cause it to strip itself or to break. We didn't talk much in either chat about preventing twisting, but one suggestion would be this: every few stitches, allow your needle to hang down. When you do so, both floss and blending filament will untwist if they've twisted at all as you've been stitching. Some stitchers recommend dampening the strands of blending filament before stitching with them. This seems to help prevent twisting and breakage, as well.
Blending filament and floss do not have the same degree of elasticity, so stitching with both fibers in a blended needle can create a problem in which the filament ends up seeming shorter than the floss. Again, using short lengths of filament and floss together can be a solution. There is also an alternative preferred by many stitchers when they are using blending filament. Rather than to use a blended needle containing both floss and filament, they prefer to do their crosses first with the floss alone. Then, they will go over each x with filament alone. In addition to avoiding difficulties from a difference in elasticity, stitching over top of the floss with blending filament will give more glitter to the embroidery. In a related thread of conversation during the Monday night chat, it was noted that because it's heavier than filament, when you stitch with a blended needle containing both floss and blending filament, the floss floats to the top, covering the filament. A suggested way to prevent this from happening is to use a laying tool. Rather than to have our chat on metallics become one on laying tools and how to use them, we'll schedule a chat all about laying tools in the future. :-) There is a website that will give you an idea what laying tools look like. The address is http://www.serve.com/marbeth/laying_tool.html. Laying tools are used to help smooth fibers as you are stitching with them and to keep them from twisting. There are a number of laying tools on the market, including trolley needles. You can also use a toothpick, a thumb or fingernail, or a second tapestry needle. The way to smooth the blended needle and to have the filament lie next to the floss is to make your stitch. Then, before you pull it tight, slide the laying tool underneath the stitch and smooth the fibers with it. Finally, pull the stitch tight with your usual tension.
It was also noted that blending filament tends to slip more through a needle than does floss. Yes, there's a solution for this, too. :-) If you purchase blending filament spools that have been put on cards, you'll find instructions enclosed for attaching the filament to your needle. What you'll do instead of threading your needle with the blending filament is to fold over one end of the fiber about an inch and a half. Where it loops, you can put the filament through the eye of the needle so you'll have a loop coming out the other side of the eye. Then, you'll take the 2 ends (one short, one long) of the filament through that loop and pull them tight. This creates a slip knot on your needle. In most cases, you'll be using floss in the same needle, so you can go ahead and thread the floss as you normally would. You may wish to use a needle a size larger than ordinary, but blending filament is very fine, so the slip knot will not affect your stitching. If there were an exception, I think it would be very fine thread-count linen, such as 40; however, one would ordinarily only use 1 strand of floss on 40-count linen, anyway.
Then there are all those other wonderful metallics out there just waiting for us. :-) Some are as fine as blending filament while others are thicker. Both DMC and Kreinik put out a variety of metallic fibers, and I'm sure there are others of which I'm not aware. As with other cross-stitch supplies, there will be some you'll like and some you won't. Most of the heavier metallics are meant to be stitched by themselves instead of in a blended needle with floss. I never try to promote or to bad-mouth any business or company that offers us cross-stitch supplies, but I have my likes and dislikes. ;-) For example, I have a hate relationship with the DMC 280 (NOTE: I gave the wrong series number at chats) series of gold and silver metallics that come on spools. They are rough, they twist no matter how I handle them, and I simply refuse to use them any more. To me, they're like stitching with barbed wire. DMC has recently come out with stranded metallics offered in skeins. These rayon fibers seem to be much smoother, and I understand the stitchers who have used them like them much better than they do some of the spooled metallics. Kreinik offers a variety of braids and cords of different weights, in additon to blending filament. So, what to do if you dislike the metallic called for in a pattern? You can do as your hostie does if you have a well-stocked cross-stitch shop near you. I will go, take a look at the metallic recommended for the chart, decide whether I think I'll like using it or not, and if not, take it to the areas where other metallics are kept. I try to match both color and thread weight (thickness) with something I think I'll like better. I realize this is a problem if you don't have a shop near you. Because I'm never opposed to going to my favorite shop, I'm willing to help you out if you need it. :-) If you don't like the metallic you're "supposed" to use, just drop me an email telling me what that fiber is and what color it is. I'm happy to go searching for a matching alternative for you. I can make suggestions after searching, but the final decision will need to be yours.
I'm not sure whether they're available in the U. S., but I do know of one place in the U. K. which manufactures real gold threads for use in embroidery. They do the manufacturing the same way it was done hundreds of years ago. I had the opportunity to see a slide presentation about this operation given by a fellow EGA member who had visited the U. K. on a needlework tour and had visited the place this is done. Sounds wonderful, doesn't it? :-) As one member pointed out, we'd have to be VERY careful not to have to do many frogstitches (rippit, rippit).
Monday night, I added a final comment about metallics at the end of chat that comes directly from the article I wrote about cleaning, mounting, and framing cross stitch. Many of us iron our finished embroideries before framing them. Because the metallics we use are manmade fibers, they will melt at high iron temperatures, just as silk can. For me, the best way to tell how hot an iron I can use on a stitchery containing metallics is to take a piece of scrap fabric, stitch a row or two with the metallic, and then go play with iron settings to be sure I don't melt it on the finished piece. There's not much that would make me more miserable than would finishing a large--or even small--piece and having the metallics melt when I iron.
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More General Information
Kinds of threads made by the various companies:
Kreinik:
The metallics made by Rainbow Gallery include the following:
Alabaster®--shiny metallic recommended for snow, ice. Chainette.
Coronet Braid®--metallic braid tightly wrapped around a rayon core. None of the core shows through.
Cresta d'Oro®--metalized polyester and rayon. Chainette.
Crystal Rays® and Frosty Rays®--tubular netting with metallic thread through the middle.
Fyre Werks®--shiny metallic ribbon. Should be laid.
Gold Rush®--another chainette. Recommended for times when you would use 4-5 strands of blending filament.
Nordic Gold®--fine metallic good for needlepoint and hardanger. Chainette.
Precious Metals®--strong, fine metallic.
Tiara®--twisted metallic.
Razzle-Dazzle®--rough texture gives it shine and sparkle. Best used in long lengths couched.
Ribbon Rays®--Makes an excellent trim to cover seams. Chainette.
Treasure Braid®--very shiny metallic in 3 sizes. Does not unravel.
24 Karats®--shiny chainette.
DMC also puts out a line of metallics, although not so many as the companies mentioned above. There is a series of gold and silver spooled metallic (the 280 series). The latest in their line is a series of colored metallics that come in skeins and are more pliable than the spooled metallics.
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This information is from The Stitchery Magazine, July 1996. Page 32:
Selection chart for Kreinik Metallics
[1] Blending Filaments ..... 1 ply ..... Can be used by itself or in combination with other yarns.
[2] Cord & Japan #1, #5, #7 ..... 1 ply gimp ..... For fine stitching and couching
[3] Cable ..... 3 ply cord ..... For outlining and to be couched
[4] Braids
[5] Ribbons
[6] Ombre ..... 8 ply ..... Cross-stitch, needlepoint, crochet and machine knitting.
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From: "Catharine Lawhon" I have posted an article on [my] site explaining my very simple methods for working with rayon and metallic fibers. I really love to work with these new materials, and would like to share my methods with anyone who may be having trouble using them. Feel free to print out a copy of the article for yourself. I'll be adding new designs on a regular basis!
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An Introduction to Metallic Threads
by Jacqueline Friedman Kreinik
70 color photos; 128 pages
Approx.: $25.00 (US)
Review found in March 1999 edition of The Stitchery Magazine, page 62
A valuable reference book for beginning and experienced stitchers. Cross-stitch, needlepoint, ribbon and surface embroidery, and more are covered in 18 designs that provide lessons on visualizing textures, enhancing colors, and replicating realistic images in embroidery. An illustrated stitch glossary describes 38 stitch types, and explanations are provided on how, where, and when to use metallic threads. The autor has taught the use of metallic threads for more than a decade.
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Metallics
How about a substitute for 284Z?
Marilyn Leavitt-Imblum recommends that you use for the 284Z symbol, DMC 5282 with one strand of Kreinik blending filament 002HL. For the silver metallics use DMC 5283 with one strand of Kreinik 001HL. The reason that we need to add the blending filament is because the thread can be dull without it and I want it to have more shine and sparkle.
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Kreinik advises that you use a pad on top of your stitchery, as well as underneath it, when you press a piece containing metallics. This will help keep the metallics from melting.
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Martha Beth Lewis wrote an article called Taking the Mystery Out of Metallic Floss. You can visit her website, then ask her how you might get a copy of that article which was originally written for DMC.
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Blending Filaments
From: Frances I have found it easier to work with the blending filaments by threading 1 needle with the floss and another with the blending filaments. Work across the first part of the x with the floss, drop the floss needle, pick up the blending filaments and work over the floss just laid, then pick up your floss needle and finish the second part of the x and the first part of the next x. Drop the floss needle and work over the second part of the x and the first part of the next x. No tangles, no twisting (except occasionally) and no breaking.
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From: Alison Hendon [Another} way to [add blending filament] is to make the half crosses with filament in the OPPOSITE direction from your top crosses. This adds more shine as the BF doesn't sink into the top floss cross stitch as it might when it goes the same way.
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From: Carol E Bristow I seem to have stumbled on the secret to working with blending filament! I'm working on a wedding sampler that uses blending filament. I cringed, but I like the pattern, so figured I'd deal with it. Well, unlike most patterns that use filament, this one called for two strands of filament mixed with two strands of floss. So I did one long piece of filament, knotted on the needle in the middle. Because the ends of the filament get buried with the floss ends immediately, there's no ravelling, no fraying, not even any knotting! I was absolutely amazed, and very pleased. I'm even using fairly long lengths, and not having a bit of trouble!
I think I will be using two strands in the future, whatever the pattern calls for!
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Date: July 09, 2000
Thread Heaven is a paste-like compound sold in beading and sewing stores. It replaces beeswax and helps make crotchity threads behave. I use it when working with blending filament and nymo beading thread. I do not know if it has been tested for preservation work.
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Rayon
From: Kathy (regarding stitching with rayon):
It is sort of like stitching with the blending filaments—it is slippery and doesn't lie as flat as the cotton floss. As a result it does give dimension in addition to shine to the project. Some of the suggestions for using the rayon floss say to slightly dampen it first ... There was an excellent article on stitching with rayon floss in the December issue of Just Cross Stitch, p. 42-43.
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From: Lula I just put up a couple of pics of my rayon floss stitching and comments. Thought you all might like to take a look since the topic of rayon floss came up.
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Alternative Fiber Choices
Date: July 09, 2000
As an alternative to blending filaments, you might want to try one of the
Sulky metallic machine embroidery threads. The one I'm thinking about is a
flat ribbon, like the blending filament. But being made as machine thread, it
is very sturdy.
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Date: July 09, 2000
I have been using these [Sulky metallic machine embroidery threads] for several months now. Their flat ribbon-like one is very reminiscent of Madeira "Jewels" (which is also made for machines and is marvelous) and is called "Sliver Metallic." They come in plain metallics, variegated metallics, and the sliver.
If you want to substitute one of these for a thicker braided metallic just stitch each part of the stitch several times — i.e. if I want to substitute for one strand of DMC metallic floss I stitch the stitch 3 times with the Sulky. I tried using 3 strands in my needle at a time but didn't like the look. I find doing the stitch 3 times is much nicer looking. One strand of Sulky substitutes straight across for one strand of blending filament.
Madeira has similar metallics size-wise, but the ones that are available
in fabric stores don't come in as many colors. Both are very strong because they are made for machine embroidery and sewing. They should be available in most fabric stores.
Another thread is Sulky machine rayon. It comes is a lot of colors that look really luscious. Even though rayon is a pain to use, I really like the look of it and don't mind the hassle. Without examining it closely it seems to be about the size of a #8 perle coton.
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Date: July 10, 2000
In addition to Sulky and Madeira, DMC and other companies make metallic machine embroidery threads that I have personally found to be quite sturdy and less apt to fray as stitched with. I am mainly was using the threads on canvas, but since you'll be testing the thread(s) you wish to use in the far margin of your linen before adding the new thread in the design area, you'll quickly see if a particular thread works for you and your fabric.
And has anyone tried crochet thread(s)? One example that fits a #18 canvas is Rayon Crochet, made by Lily. It's available in solid as well as variegated, and although the color selection is quite limited there's a lot of yardage on each ball for about $2.00.
Like all rayon threads, it's somewhat slippery so a challenge to use, but no more so than metallic threads can be! For shiny designs such as for Christmas or holiday ornaments, the results can be dramatic.
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Date: July 10, 2000
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Needles
Date: July 09, 2000
You might try using a slightly larger needle, so that the eye helps do more
of the work. Also, if you lock the thread around the eye of the needle, as
is pictured on some of the packages, the needle won't shred the thread in
more than one spot.
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Taking a Shine to Your Needlepoint: Simple tricks for using metallics, silks and rayons
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Books
Reviewed by: Margaret M. Davaz
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