Favorite Fabrics for Counted Cross-Stitch
Updated February 09, 2002


Introduction

At a Stitch Chat in America Online’s Fiber and Needle Art room in June 1996, the AOL Stitchers discussed our favorite fabrics to stitch on and the reasons the fabrics rate highly. In this article, I’ll discuss groups of fabrics, then the individual fabrics we talked about within each group.

It seems natural that most Stitchers learned to cross-stitch on aida, then moved to evenweaves and linens once they had some stitching experience under their belts. For some, the jump to an evenweave or linen seems frightening, so they need a lot of encouragement before making the leap. I certainly understand that! It was only at the urging of Stitch Chatters that I gave it a try myself in 1995. And like many of my co-chatters, these evenweaves and linens are now my fabrics of choice. I do admit, though, that I still like aida for small, quick projects like refrigerator magnets and ornaments. I just don’t have to think as hard while stitching!


Aida vs. Eavenweaves and Linens

Generally speaking, Stitchers like to use aida because where one puts the needle is very obvious. You simply stitch over the "boxes" from hole to hole. A problem with aida comes when stitching a pattern that incorporates 1/4 and 3/4 stitches. It’s advisable to use a sharp needle (rather than the blunt needle usually used when cross-stitching) to poke through the center of the square/block to create the 1/4 stitch.

These 1/4 and 3/4 stitches are a breeze when using evenweaves and linens because then you are generally stitching "over two" meaning that every "X" stitch covers two horizontal and two vertical threads of your ground fabric. 1/4 and 3/4 stitches are easily done because your needle simply goes over one horizontal and one vertical thread to make the short arm of the stitch. One important item to note when stitching on evenweaves and linens is where you start stitching. Beginning by a vertical thread will help to keep your stitches on top of your piece because they are supported. If you begin stitching next to a horizontal thread, the stitches tend to slide or roll to the back of your work because they are not supported. For a more in-depth discussion and an image of beginning next to the vertical thread, I suggest reading Kathy Dyer’s FAQ.

I’ve found that stitching over two is pretty easy once you get the hang of it. It’s been suggested to begin learning to use evenweaves and linens on a small project. I started with a light-switch plate cover. Once you get the hang of seeing the vertical thread and counting two threads, it’s really no harder, no scarier and no more intimidating than stitching on aida. As one Stitcher noted, "I was petrified to try! But what’s the worst that can happen? Just start with a small project and you’ll do fine! Start with a larger count—pretend you’re a beginner. Get a scrap and practice on it."


Hoop or Hand?

Another note on fabric types is that in general, aida stitchers use hoops, Q-Snaps or scroll bars while stitching to keep their fabric taut. Stitchers using evenweaves and linens have the option to stitch "in the hand" or use Q-Snaps and scroll bars. Some of the advantages of stitching "in the hand" are that one can use the sewing method rather than the poking method. The sewing method tends to make stitching quicker since you get a needle-down-and-needle-up motion all in one stroke, while the poke method takes two strokes. Another advantage is just getting to feel the fabric in your hand. But using hoops, Q-Snaps and scroll frames helps keep tension even. Again, Kathy Dyer’s FAQ has a wonderful section about the advantages and disadvantages of these the two stitching methods.


Dark Fabrics

No matter if you are using aida, an evenweave or linen, dark fabrics have their own difficulties—especially at night. It’s hard to see the holes! Stitching with black floss on a dark ground fabric is a particular feat! Some solutions:

1. Put a white towel in your lap.

2.

Wear white or light gray pants while stitching.

3.

Put a light UNDER your work, across the room, or face the sun so your light source shows through the back.

4.

Use a good light.

For more tips on stitching on dark fabrics, check out my page in Needlework 101 entitled, Stitching on Black Ground Cloth.


Light Fabrics

Likewise, light colored fabrics have their difficulties. Some Stitchers report that their dark-colored floss leaves marks on their light-colored stitches. One suggested solution:

1. Always stitch the dark colors first.


Hand-Dyed and Specialty Linens

Red Tide Hand-dyed linen Red Tide from Green Mountain Hand-Dyed Linens

Hand-dyed linens are becoming more and more popular these days. These linens are usually colored using natural vegetable dyes. It is recommended that you keep your hands clean while stitching on them and that you NOT wash your completed project because these dyes are not always color-fast. The ground fabric dyes can bleed if you wash them. Another aspect of hand-dyed linens is that the colors may not be consistent and smooth throughout the fabric. You may see "splotches" of color that are a deeper hue or lighter hue than the piece as a whole. That is a normal part of the hand-dyed process. Stitchers often have a strong reaction to this "splotchiness" ... they either love it for its unique qualities, or hate if for its unevenness.

At least one of the Stitchers in our group is also a weaver. She’s been known to spin, dye and weave her own ground fabrics, then stitch a pattern onto it! Often these hand-made fabrics will be un-even weaves which gives the completed stitched project a unique effect. This is said to be authentic to the 1700’s and might be known as vintage linen. Using flower thread on these projects give them a very old look.


Tiny Stitches

Finally, there was some discussion about stitching on very high count fabrics for petit point. Often-times, these are silks. Having never tried petit point myself, I will try to faithfully report what I learned from these adventurous tiny stitch Stitchers. Diane took a class from Cynthia Zittel of Drawn Thread Designs. Cynthia said that if you can do 25 count, you can do any.

"Don’t be afraid of little stitches!" Being able to see the holes in this high count fabric seems to be the biggest challenge. A good light and a magnifier are often recommended. Tinysttchs, our resident petit point Stitcher, uses 42 ct silk gauze. She soon hopes to try 72 ct. and then work her way up to 112 ct. She joked that when she begins stitching on that high count fabric, she will change her name to "Teeny Tiny".

For more information on stitching over one, visit my Needlework 101 page entitled Stitching Over One -- Petit Point.


Reminder

There are many, many more fabrics than those listed below. The following fabrics are simply the ones mentioned at chat as being favorites of the Stitchers in Stitch Chat. For a complete list of fabrics and their content, see Kathy Dyer’s FAQ.


Aida

Ainring Aida, 18 countAinring Aida, 18 count

Advantages:
- Lots of count available, from 8 ct. to 18 ct.
- Lots of color choices, including one that looks like an old parchment map.
- Easily available.
- Easy to see where your needle goes next.
- Fairly easy to skip around in the chart and not lose count.

Disadvantages:
- Difficulty with 1/4 and 3/4 stitches.

Fabric content:
- Most are 100% cotton.

Types of aida:

-
Linen AidaLinen Aida

Linen Aida
9 ct. Linen blend: cotton and linen. Stiff like aida, not as delicate as linen. Texture a bit like Klostern, but doesn’t fray as badly. Great to use with perle coton.


-

Fiddler's ClothFiddler's Cloth

Fiddler’s Cloth and Fiddler’s Light
50% cotton, 42% polyester, 8% linen. This may not technically be an aida, but it has the same square look. The 14 ct. now comes in: tan/beige, lavender, heather/gray, mauve, a blue and a green. 16 ct. and 18 ct. are also available. Made by Charles Craft. This has a very interesting rough, nubby texture that is strange to stitch on, but the finished projects look great. A map done on the beige had an antique look.


-

Banjo Cloth, 14 countBanjo Cloth, 14 count

Banjo Cloth
Cotton/polyester/linen. 14 count. This looks a bit like Fiddler's Cloth, but with different coloring. It's not as nubby as Fiddlers, but has an interesting color pattern. Manufactured by Regency Mills, Inc.


Evenweaves and Linens

Stitching on an evenweave is a great in your transition from aida to linen. Evenweaves tend to be smoother than aida. And as noted earlier, they are great for fractional stitches. Linen has thick and thin threads as part of its weave. An evenweave fabric does not have thick and thin threads; all the threads are the same thickness. Linens are known for being nubby. Evenweaves have a refined quality.

One Stitcher asked if she should just stitch over a linen nub (making that stitch larger than the surrounding ones), or if there is another solution. Another Stitcher answered that you can pull the thick strand and re-weave another thinner one in it’s place, to which a third Stitcher responded, "I think I’d just stitch over it. I’m a Stitcher, not a weaver!" Evenweaves don’t have these slubs; that is another reason they tend to be a good transitional fabrics. These fabrics are great for more intricate stitching.

Picking the right ground fabric for a given project seems to be the key to a great finished piece. Usually, charts will give some guidelines for the ground fabric. But feel free to experiment!

Advantages:
- Softer than aida, especially in the higher counts.
- Completed projects look more like paintings; no holes showing in completed projects.
- Easy to stitch 1/4 and 3/4 stitches.

Disadvantages:
- Stitches slip to the back when stitching over one (especially on the linens).

-
Easier to miscount if you skip around in the chart.

Fabric content:

-
See below.

Types of evenweaves and linens:

-

Lavender Linen Belfast Linen (lavender)
32 ct. 100% linen.

-

LuganaBrittney, 28 count

Brittney (now called Lugana 28 count)
28 ct. 52% cotton, 48% rayon. Manufactured by Zweigart. This is a very nice fabric to stitch on because it is "springy".


-

Cashel linen
100% linen (?)

-

White <I>Hardanger</I>, 22 countWhite Hardanger, 22 count
Hardanger
22 ct. 100% cotton.

-

White Birch Heatherfield, 26 countWhite Birch Heatherfield, 26 count
Heatherfield
100% polyacrylic (linen tweed). Very soft, flimsy. Fun. Has flecks of greens, reds and blues. One Stitcher used it for Christmas ornaments.

-

Jobelan
16, 20, 28 and 32 ct. 51% cotton, 49% polyester. A heavy fabric.

-

Jubilee
28 ct. 100% cotton.

-

Klostern
7 ct. 40% cotton, 60% rayon. Good for pillows.

-

Linda
27 ct. 100% cotton.

-

Lugana, 25 countLugana, 25 count

Lugana
25 ct. 52% cotton, 48% rayon. A great choice for your first evenweave project. This is a heavy fabric.


-

White Monaco, 28 countWhite Monaco, 28 count

Monaco
100% cotton. Fairly easy to find, this is known as a good ground fabric for silk ribbon embroidery.


-

Quaker Cloth, 28 countQuaker Cloth, 28 count

Quaker
55% linen, 45% cotton. Manufactured by Zweigart. This fabric has very nice body and is wonderful to work on.


-

White Valerie, 20 countWhite Valerie, 20 count

Valerie (now called Lugana 20)
52% cot/48% rayon. This fabric is known as Bellana in Europe. Manufactured by Zweigart.


Waste Canvas, Towels and Perforated Paper, etc.

Waste Canvas, 14 countWaste Canvas, 14 count
Waste canvas is used as a temporary ground fabric that allows you to stitch evenly on garments. Because this is a whole subject to itself, I’ve written an article about how to use it in Needlework 101 entitled Working With Waste Canvas. This article can be found elsewhere on this site.

Fingertip Towel with InsertFingertip Towel with Insert
Stitching on towels is either done using waste canvas or using towels with the pre-inserted aida strips. Most Stitchers agree that if you anchor your stitching well, the towels can survive many washings in the washing machine without the stitches coming undone. Some use the mini-basket in their machine and a gentle cycle. But Aleene of the "Creative Living" TV show says that anything created by hand should be laundered by hand.

Perforated Paper, 14 count
It was noted that perforated paper is preferred for greeting cards, ornaments and beadwork. They are easy to finish because the edges do not need to be bound or covered. But you may need to alter charts because you cannot use 1/4 or 3/4 stitches on perforated paper. And you do need to be careful not to bend the perforated paper because that can cause the paper to rip.


Conclusion

With the many types of ground fabrics and many charts, there are a myriad of stitching techniques and uses for completed projects. Stretch a little! Give a new fabric a try!


Copyright © 1995/2002 by Margaret M. Davaz, aka CameoRoze

Written for the purpose of informing and stimulating the creativity in other lovers of counted cross-stitch. Permission is granted to redistribute this article in its entirety for noncommercial use provided that this copyright notice is not removed or altered and that no portion of this work is sold either by itself or as part of a larger work without the express written permission of the author.


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