Blackwork Basics | ||||||||||||||
|
Blackwork is a special category of counted thread embroidery in which so-called diaper or repetitive patterns are used to fill design areas. It is called blackwork because, traditionally, black silk thread was worked on white linen. Blackwork is said to have originated in Spain, becoming very popular in England during the 16th century when Catherine of Aragon married King Henry VIII. At that time, blackwork appeared on clothing and bed covers. The play of one diaper pattern upon another creates dark, medium and light areas within a design; a mixture of all 3 shades adds interest to a piece. Today, blackwork patterns are used in working two different types of designs: BLOCK DESIGNS, in which the patterns themselves form a simple geometric shape FREE-FORM DESIGNS, in which the patterns are used to fill predetermined shapes in a design. Blackwork is done on evenweave fabric, typically evenweave linen or Hardanger fabric. For exact pattern repetition, stitches are counted over a precise number of threads. The more threads there are per inch of fabric, the smaller (and darker) the embroidered blackwork area will be. Embroidery floss is usually used in blackwork; depending on the weave of the fabric, the number of strands can vary. Finer pearl cottons can also be used on the coarser woven fabrics. Although black floss on white linen is the traditional color choice, other colors can be used to give blackwork a more modern look. Brown floss on beige linen or deep blue on eggshell are popular. Gold or silver metallic threads create a fancier look. Because blackwork is worked over an exact number of threads, the needle must go between threads rather than the pierce them. For this purpose, fine tapestry needles are best. Select a size that corresponds to the floss you choose. --------------- Another good description of Blackwork can be read in Kathy Dyer's FAQ: --------------- Carolyn Blackwork was originally done in Spain and was brought to England by Catherine of Aragon when she married Henry VIII. It was featured in clothing of the times and was made famous by Hans Holbein, the painter. It was not originally a counted technique, because in those days there were no countable fabrics. It was worked in black silk, and sometimes small areas of gold metallic threads, on a white ground fabric, and was used for bed linens, neck ruffs, handkerchiefs, cuffs, nightcaps, and even cloths which were used to clean the teeth! Some examples may be seen in the Victoria and Albert Museum in London, as well as in many other British and American Museums. Most of the surviving examples are from the upper classes and the churches, because the harsh washing techniques of the day destroyed the pieces used by the common people, and those pieces owned by the church and the gentry got better care. Also, the dyes used at that time contained iron and tended to rot the silk. Today, many pieces which do survive show the pattern only in the residue of dye left where the thread went through the fabric. The metallic threads have survived.
The modern form of Blackwork is worked on evenweave fabric using dark, not necessarily black, thread. Most stitches are worked over two threads of the fabric weave, but sometimes oblique stitches are used. The stitch used is usually Holbein, or double running stitch. It was named Holbein after the 16th century painter who featured it in his paintings. Double running stitch is worked by doing a running stitch, (over two, under two) and then returning along the same path while filling in the missing stitches. This creates a solid line, and many of these patterns are reversible, or at least, create another pattern on the back. Shading is accomplished by using more stitches in an area, thus making the resulting design darker.
It is common to see these patterns surrounded by heavy outlines of whipped chain or some other stitch. These outlines are handy for burying the ends of the working thread. The more adventurous stitchers are creating pictures without the outlines. a good reference for the modern design and technique is Blackwork Embroidery, by Margaret Pascoe. Another good source book for instructions is written by Marion Scoular.
I hope this has helped to clarify the definition of a beautiful form of stitching which can be fun and a challenge.
---------------
This information came from Host TCup (on AOL) as a result of her chat on Blackwork and described in her newsletter of August 26, 1997:
Blackwork is a very old type of embroidery, especially popular
in Spain and England during the 16th Century.
Blackwork designs can be roughly classified as follows:
1) Designs with freehand outlines and reasonably large motifs in which fillings are worked;
2) designs based on counted thread, also with open spaces for fillings;
3) Designs on which the motifs are only outlined while the background is worked in blackwork
Traditionally, blackwork was done with black silk thread on white or cream-colored fabric. Today, many interesting effects can be achieved using different fabric colors and threads.
Originally, much blackwork was used to decorate clothing. If you look at paintings by Hans Holbein, you can see examples of this type of embroidery. (Interesting note: this is where the name of the Holbein stitch came from).
Most commonly, Blackwork is stitched using backstitch or double-running stitch, where the outline of the motif is stitched, and then filled in with a pattern.
The effect of blackwork depends on the contrasts of light and dark, which effects the choice of filling patterns. All fillings consist of small stitches worked right up to the outline stitch. The patterns can be small and delicate or larger and more bold.
---------------
Elizabethan Blackwork
Classic Stitches
The Skinner Sisters
Blackwork
---------------
Books
---------------
From: CameoRoze I recently bought a nice (older) book about stitching with some lovely Holbein patterns in it. It's called:
Counted-Thread Embroidery
All of chapters three and four are dedicated to the Holbein stitch, Assisi work and blackwork. She talks a lot about the Holbein stitch. She says it's one of her favorite counted thread techniques, so she has quite a lot about it in the book. She's done some magnificent portraits in blackwork!
Anyway, here's what she said:
[snip]
"The possible implication of embroidery on both sides of the collar may be that it was embroidered in Holbein stitch, or, more properly, double running stitch, which is the same on both sides of the fabric, allowing both sides to be seen to equal advantage. This made it especially useful on the ruffled cuffs and collars of the Tudor period, as well as on the elaborate handkerchiefs they carried."
[big, big snip]
"For far too long I was convinced that blackwork embroidery was far too difficult for me to tackle. I had been experimenting with Holbein stitch and was under the impression that blackwork patterns were also supposed to be double-sided. The delight with which I discovered that this was not necessarily so spurred me on, and it was not long before blackwork became my favorite embroidery medium ..."
|
